Bespoke couture for You to celebrate in
Bespoke couture for You to celebrate in

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Pleated, cotton face mask tutorial. Learn how to sew a cotton pleated face mask with lining. This version uses bias tape.

The mask is reusable as it is made from textile. Please use only 100 % cotton fabric. You can use any of your favourite or leftover textiles, which may be lying unused in your home.

Please note that this face mask should be sterilized before and after every usage, or before giving it to another person.

It should always be washed in warm soapy water and pressed with a steam iron – according to the advice of doctors. This mask is suitable for basic hospital usage.

You will need:

  • 100 % cotton fabric as the main body and as the lining;
  • 20 mm width bias tape. You will need about 1 meter if you want to attach it at your ear, and about 1.5 meters if you want to attach it around your head;
  • scissors or rotary cutter, thread, pins, sewing machine.

The easiest way to make your own pattern is as follows:

  • Cut out a 20 X 20 square from a sheet of paper.
  • Fold the square in half, and then fold it in half again to form a 10 X 10 square.
  • Next mark one pinch 2 cm from the four loose corners of the square as shown.
  • Draw a smooth curve from the pinch to one corner as shown.
  • Cut.
  • Unfold the paper to reveal a perfectly symmetrical pattern.
  • From the top, make marks at 4, 7, 10 and 13 cm as shown.
  • (If you do the mask for a kid, begin from a 18 x 18 cm square. Cut the curve as usual and make marks at 3, 6, 8 and 11 cm.)

Step 1 ~ PATTERN CUTTING

After having your own pattern please notice the 4 markings (pinches) on both sides which will help you to create the pleats. (The arrows show the direction of the folding)

Cut out the paper pattern and place it on both the main and the lining fabrics. Pin it to the fabric and cut around the pattern.

Cut 2 or 3 mm into the fabric to mark the position of the pinches, which will help you to create the pleats later.

Step 2 ~ SEW together the 2 layers

Place the pattern side (the side you want to see) face down on the lining fabric, and pin them together.

The seam allowance is 7mm which is included in the pattern. (My machine foot width is 7 mm so it makes it easy to keep the seam allowance.)

Machine the fabrics together on the top and on the bottom.

Step 3 ~ TURN AND PRESS

Cut off half the seam allowance.

Turn the pattern side out and press the edge of the mask flat at the seam allowances with an iron.

pleated facemask

Step 4 ~ CREATE PLEATS

Now we will create the pleats. You have already cut four 2-3 mm pinches on each edge of the fabric (see step 1).

Starting from the top, fold the material from the first pinch to the second, and pin. Then repeat on the other side.

Then fold from the third pinch to the fourth, and pin. Repeat on the other side. Iron them flat.

Optional: sew along the edge of the pleats to keep the lining and the main fabric together all the time, including after washing. Sew about 1-2 mm from the edge.

Step 5 ~ BIAS SEWING

See the picture below for how to fold the ends of the bias tape.  To create a strong end, open the end of the bias tape and fold it back upon itself, as shown. Then close the end, fold in half, and pin.

The bias tape will be sewn onto the lining, so place the mask with the lining facing up. Find the center of the bias tape and place it on the center of the side of the mask (lining side). Open the bias tape and align it with the edge of the face mask, and pin.

Now sew the bias tape onto the lining as close as possible to the crease on the edge side. 1 mm away would be ideal. See picture.

Repeat for the other side.

Fold the bias tape over the edge, turning the mask as you do.

Pin the bias tape in position onto the previous stitch, as shown.

Finally, you need to sew along the entire length of the bias tape about 2mm from the edge to close it. Start by closing one end, sew along the length of the tape, and finish with the final end, as shown in the pictures below.

When you reach the end of the bias tape, turn and finish the end as well.

Set the appropriate size for you by tying a knot in the tape.

Well done!